Norway 2

Norsko 2

2. 7. 2017 - 13. 7. 2017   619,5 km

At 6pm we finally loaded ourselves on a ferry. Totally excited we were standing on the prow to see seals on our way as it was promised in a Lysefjord cruise guide. But the sky went dark, a strong wind was blowing so our excitement didn’t last for long and we holed up to the cabin. Our stomachs started to rumble- announcing that after the last meal at 3pm they’re empty again. But we didn’t have anything to give to them anymore. There was no grocery shop in Lyseboton so refilling of snacks was planned after landing. Almost like on purpose everybody in the cabin was eating and we were just sitting in the middle of all those delicious smells and convincing ourselves that we were not hungry at all. We landed at 8:30pm in Forsand in which there was a Coop store. However as it was Saturday it was open only until 5pm. We didn’t have any other chance than to hungry go to the 17km distanced Jorpeland which is a bigger town and stores are open there until 11pm. As we said it was Saturday and on Sunday all stores are closed so we just had to go there. Before we reached the town, bought some food and gratified our stomachs it was already 11:30pm. It was dark outside and we went along the river on a path by which we found a nice spot for our tent. On the following day we planned to a visit a very touristic popular place- Lysefjord– Preikestol. Kata was looking forward to see it since we arrived to Norway. It was overcast so we decided to cycle 5km to a camp, build a tent, leave our bikes there and walk to Preikestol. It started to rain so we tried to hitch hike. Luck was on our side and the fourth car stopped by and drove us to the parking place located under the Preikestol. Together with a tourist crowd we were climbing up. The higher we were the worst the weather looked like. The rain became very intense and a white fog was all around us. It was clear that we won’t see much of the view but we carried on even though. On the top Paja was trying her best to take a picture of Kata. Well, maybe you will even find her in the photo.

The way back was much harder. The rain was heavier and stones more slippery. One had to pay attention not only to them but also to the Asian tourists who were having quiet difficulties on this path. Until we came back down we were all wet. It didn’t make sense to try luck and hitch hike. Those 3 km to the camp were really long. Water was falling down from our coats, gore tex shoes were sodden and we were clicking with teeth. We ran right to the shower. If the water was actually hot we don’t even know. And then right to the sleeping pack. After a cup of tea and a soup we were feeling much better. We just wished we had a place to dry out our clothes! The very next day the weather wasn’t better at all, it was raining since early morning. We weren’t excited about that but we had to pay for another night stand in the camp. In one moment when the rain stopped Paja went to buy some food. Before she finished with shopping it started to rain heavily again. While she was waiting for the rain to stop she started a little chit chat with a nice Norwegian guy Kenneth who invited her and Kata to his place for a dinner and beer. Paja – of course- accepted the invitation right away and ran back to the camp with those happy news. We packed our stuff and went to Kenneth. We had a hot shower, washed our clothes and were served with a coffee, beer and grilled meat (even Paja ate some) and potato salad (potato and majo). What else we could wished for! After a sweet sleep in a comfy bed we said good bye to Kenneth and had to go off on the road. On our way we met a tourist on bike from France whom we talked a little with. We exchanged our experiences about Norway and agreed on the fact that it’s better to rather tay in the super warm tent than to be in presence of the tiny Midge's flies which try to eat you alive. Then we separated our ways again. Even though we were biking along the fiord we had to go many kilometers uphill or through tunnels. In one of them we met our French friend again whose name we don’t even know because the introduction never actually happened. Together we continued to the Sand town where we had a snack and talked about the life in Czech Republic and France. Then we went to find a harbor from which we wanted to take a ferry to the other bank (500 m). We found the harbor but found out that the ferry hasn’t been going there for a while. We were disappointed and angry. The only option was to go back on the 16km long hilly way back, go over a bridge and get to the other bank. We chose this way, the Frenchie was considering a completely different way or a hitch hike. Instead of 500 meters over the sea we had to go for 33 km. Well you gotta do what you gotta do. Plus- we’re on holiday, not in a hurry.   

We were going along the other bank up to the Saud town. And then came the 30 km long rise up on the road no. 520. In the guide they wrote: “On this very interesting part of the road you’ll see all the landscapes from fiord up to hills in 15 minutes by car.” Well we managed this super interesting road in 5 hours. Physically it was devastating but the landscape really rewarded it. Then we zoomed along down the hill where there was another long tunnel. We rather kept this fun for the next day.

Until we came to the tunnel we didn’t even know if it was bikers allowed. Fortunately it was so we put on the lights and head lamps and went into it. It was almost 7 km long, dark, smelly and endless. The good thing was that there was almost no traffic as we were going in the morning and it was downhill. The way down continued even further behind the tunnel. The way was variegated by two huge waterfalls, crystal clear river and an iceberg. We went through a lovely town called Odda reached to the ferry to get back to the other bank again. The ferry arrived, we boarded and after paying the tickets found out we are going the wrong way. So we enjoyed the unplanned one hour long break in a cabin and then finally went on the right ship.

We arrived to a town called Voss, which was under a reconstruction so it didn’t look too lovely. We quickly bought what was necessary and started to search for a place to camp. But the mountain landscape has changed into agriculture one and fields were smelling everywhere around. The best choice was a regular camping place where we needed to stay for two days due to bad weather conditions. We spent time by watching series and building fat reserves. That was a smart thing to do because the next part of the way was leading us 20 km uphill. But right after that there was an amazing 10 km long downhill run up to the town Vik. We went across the water again and continued along Sognefiord where we also decided to stay over the night. We slept very well so we woke up a little bit later on the next day. If we could have seen into the future we would just stay in our sleeping packs for the whole day but sadly we could havenot. During the ride Kata was admiring the perfect color of foird and didn’t pay too much attention to the road when all of the sudden she hit a barrier gate with her handlebars. She got catapulted from her bike and fell down on the road. Fortunately it still ended up quiet ok, teared clothes,couple of bruises, abrasions and bumped wrists. When we recollected ourselves we went to buy a salami for a patient. After 11 km Kata was unable to change gearing. The defect? A cracked string. So we started to fix it. Kata’s arm was hurting a lot so we decided to not continue further for that day and build a tent. While unpacking we found out that Paja was missing our wallet. It was laying on the toilets in shopping mall where we bought the salami. There was no other way than her to go back those 11 km to the mall. Fortunately the wallet was already waiting for her in lost and founds. Well what we can say. Laying in sleeping packs would be definitely a better way how to spend that day.

In the morning Kata’s injury wasn’t looking any better. The arm was swollen and hurt so we bought a piece of plastic something and made a splint. We were in the town Gaupe in which there was another beautiful azure fiord – the Lustrafjord. Kata was very excited about it but was admiring very carefully this time. And then it started. The flat road began to get up. At first it looked like a nice little hill but after several kilometers we realized it really wasn’t. Paja was bravely cycling, Kata pushing the biking with her hurting arm. We were desperately searching for a place where to stay. The temperature went lower and lower and wearinessbigger and bigger. And then we spotted a tent, and another one..and another one. It wasn’t any camping place, just few tourists were sleeping in the mountains on the only one spot possible. So we joined them. In our tent we learned that the road we chose leading through the highest mountain col in the North Europe. We caught ourselves in our own trap. During the following days we managed to go to the height of 1434 MAMSL. (We started at 0 MAMSL). We were followed by a fog, rain, snow, hail and the temperature was 4°C. We really didn’t imagine the summer this way. We were frozen to bones and the view was none.

We were compensated by a nice valley to which we arrived after couple of hours. The sun was shining, roads were dry, mountains green, covered by a snow only on their tops. Along a clyster clear river we went to the village called Lom in which there are 3 national parks of Norway. There is also a church from 12. Century.