Finland

19. 8. 2017 - 10. 9. 2017   1250,5 km

The closer we got to the Finish border the more mosquitoes were everywhere around. Exactly as we were warned before. Our favorite breaks became a real hell because right after going down from the bike we had to put on our mosquitoes- net- protection. We crossed the Finish border while it was raining (so unusual) on 19 th of August at 7:15 pm. Right after that we found out that we appeared in another time zone, in Finland there was 8:15 pm. At the customs office we used a bathroom to get some tap water and eventually
we built our tent just a few meters from the office. Besides the fact it was one hour later we also experienced the dark again after some time. The very next day the weather didn’t look much better. We put on our waterproofs which was also a good protection from the annoying insects and we set off. After 10 km we passed the first Finish grocery store, actually a mini market. Feeling very cold we entered in with big expectations. We were looking forward lower prices compare to Norway. But as it was a mini market the prices were more or less the same. We at least got a coffee to warm ourselves up and a piece of
cake. There was also a camp attached to the store and as the weather forecast promised a better conditions for the very next day we decided to stay over. As of the next day we started our tour de Finland. The road was running very well. No long intense hills, only plains. The traffic was very little, we met more reindeers than cars. The roads were good quality and were lined with coniferous forests. The landscape was mostly taiga.

After 30 km we arrived to civilization. If it could have been called like that. We were in Enontekiö town and we headed for the supermarkets right away. There were two of them – K-Market and S-Market. Regarding to prices some of the articles were cheaper compare to Norway but some were more expensive. But we definitely started to please our bodies more than before. Kata was enjoying sausages, salami, hamburgers or meat balls. Paja pancakes, eggs and salads. Very lovely change from bread with a marmalade. We noticed one very strange thing. Right after the payment people went straight to the slot machines
which were placed in every store right behind the cash desk. And what was even stranger, you could either put there coins or even pay by credit card. The Enontekiö town is also an entering point into the Pallas-Yllästunturi national park along which we planned our way. We knew already from home that in the national parks there should have been special cottages built for tourists to sleep over for free. They are called autitupa. Exactly those cottages including saunas were in this national park. We were very interested in this. The sauna was 9 km touristic path far away so we didn’t resist and went there. But not only it
started to rain but the nice road became very narrow with more stones and sand when all of the sudden a very high hill was standing in our way. We didn’t make to get on it with our bikes. Crying we had to turn around in the middle of the way and go back. Well we had to wait for the typical finish sauna some more time. There was another path leading through the park which was meant for vehicles. It wasn’t really an asphalt but it looked fine so we tried to continue on that one. After a while we discovered an autiotupa. It was a beautiful wooden cottage. There was a big space for sleeping, a little fire place with a box full of wood, gas bomb with a cooking stove, some dishes, table with chairs and candles. There was a fire place also in front of the cottage with grill and seats. Also some more wood and an ax weren’t missing. Even a natural toilet was there. More to the perfection there was also a sand beach by the lake. But as it was only afternoon and we haven’t gone too far yet we just admired that place for a while and set off. 

Another finish specialties are so called “laavu”. It’s half open wooden teepee with a space for sitting or sleeping. Of course there is a fire place with grill. Often you are noted about them with signs from the main road. We slept over by one of those laavu. Due to the appearance of very annoying insects we didn’t sleep right inside of it but at least the natural toilet nearby we were very happy to use. The northern Finland is very sparsely populated. Towns where we needed to get food were 70-80 km distanced from each other. People were usually frowning and they didn’t response to English. But exceptions were also
found. The other day we were sitting by a grocery store and suddenly a laughing toothless Finish guy came to us. He was talking to us about something very exciting and he was still laughing so we laughed too. Paja just decided to stop this after a while and said something in Czech to him. The man was obviously caught by surprise, staring at us for a moment but then he friendly (maybe too strongly for our taste) patted us on our heads and left while
laughing. Until now we didn’t really get what this gesture meant but we experienced it once again later on. While the temperature was still low and the rain didn’t stop we got to the first actual city – Rovaniemi. Nearby to this city there was the Santa Clause’s village, right behind the Arctic Circle. Of course we couldn’t have missed the opportunity to check this place. Sadly we didn’t meet Santa himself since we has in his office only until 5 pm. Neither Rudolf the reindeer was anywhere to see but at least we visited the Santa’s post office.

Not that we would be so sensitive but the local weather really went on our nerves. It was about the time to find a camp and a bathroom. There was one in Rovaniemi but honestly who would like to pay 32 EUR for a night in a tent. We definitely would not. So we decided to spend another night in a forest. We found a camping place in the Ranua town on a map and we hoped this one could have been cheaper. Well, it could have been cheaper but the summer season ended there on 30 th of August. We desperately sat down in front of the
reception. We were wearing our sandals because they were the only dry shoes in that moment. It was 7° C so we slowly stopped feeling our feet and we were thinking what to do next. Few kilometers back there was an arctic zoo with a small camp nearby. Although we were afraid of the price we were willing to pay almost everything for a little of warm. The camp cost reasonable 20 EUR and even a sauna was included. Our hearts speeded up their beats, finally we were about to get really warm. And since we weren’t in a hurry and the sauna was more than pleasing we paid for another night and stayed there. Our goal was
Kajaani where we were supposed to pick up packages sent from home and our passports with Russian visa. We had more than enough time to get there so we were thinking how to use such amount of time. Well the weather decided all for us. The rain which came made us two prisons in our tent for the whole day. It was psychotic. The rain was drumming into the tent, everything was wet and we didn’t have any other chance than to play battleship. Even though we arrived to Kajaani in a good mental condition. The city wasn’t too pretty
but by a pure accident we found a Czech pub there and after 4 months we drank Czech tap beer. And then quickly to Peta to whom our parents sent us all the necessary things. It was like a Christmas, we even got a fish for dinner. Peta took a great care of us and we learned few interesting stuff about Finns. We stayed there for two days but then we became homeless again.

Down to the south the landscape started to change. The coniferous forests became deciduous, often very wet and not accessible. On the north we liked the possibility to build our tent wherever we wanted. Here it began to be a problem. There was even nothing to admire while cycling. We went just straight forward. We looked forward to see the Linnansaari national park with a very large lake and sea lions. We were considering to rent a kayak to see them. However in the rental office we were told that the best season to see them was in May so now it would have been a big coincidence. Well, never mind we had a plan B – the finish castle Olavinlinna. But it wouldn’t be Finland if there wasn’t a catch. The season was over and it starts again in summer. We got only to the forecourt.

The last interesting place on our path was the road leading through lakes up to
Punkahaju town. The satellite pictures looked amazing but if you were going on the road then you, of course, didn’t have anything special out of it, especially when it’s raining. But we experienced something exciting anyway. In a camp we met two finish motor bikers. They spoke English as good as we do finish but our arms, legs and google translator solved this issue us. We got to know the true finish hospitality. The guys gave us food, drinks and even paid for a sauna. As we hadn’t have the best feeling of Finish people at first those two men changed our opinion and they stayed in our minds. But the time to go Imatra, a place close to Russian borders, has come...